© Bear State Coffee Merchants

@bearstatecoffee

Artwork to come

Pioneer Boulevard, Artesia — Little India, before the shops open

Brief · A vintage mid-century travel postcard illustration. Style: printed like cheap vintage four-colour lithography, with a COARSE VISIBLE HALFTONE DOT SCREEN across the entire image — especially sky and water. Fine stipple and engraved tonal detail underneath the screen, but no bold black outlines, no woodcut, no comic ink, no photorealism, no 3D, no gloss, no digital gradients. Palette: warm cream-sand #f0d8c0 plus one blue — dusty teal #90c0c0 and slate #607878 when sun-bleached, saturated cyan #30c0d8 when vivid. Muted olive greens in foliage. Composition: the subject sits in the RIGHT THIRD; the left two-thirds is nearly empty sky, water or ground. Low horizon. No people, or figures so small they are marks. Scene: Pioneer Boulevard in Artesia — Little India — early morning before opening. A run of low storefronts with awnings and signage rendered as blank panels, a jacaranda mid-block, a delivery van, the street quiet and clean. Mood: warm, ordinary, unhurried. Somebody sweeping. Optional single small red accent: one awning. No text, no lettering, no signage anywhere. 3:2 landscape, full bleed.

Pioneer Boulevard, Artesia — Little India, before the shops open

S795

India · 1940s · Balehonnur Coffee Research Station

also Jember in Indonesia

Pioneer Boulevard, Artesia. Everyday, and better than you expect.

Why this place

Pioneer Boulevard in Artesia before the shops open is one of the great quiet streets in Los Angeles County. Low frontages, a jacaranda mid-block, somebody sweeping, and in three hours it will be one of the busiest stretches of South Asian commerce in America.

S795 belongs there for the obvious reason and a better one. It is Indian — selected at the Balehonnur research station in the 1940s, and still around a quarter of all Indian arabica. And it is exactly this sort of everyday excellence: sweet, rounded, moderate acidity, chocolate and a little spice, entirely unshowy.

Genetically it is more interesting than it lets on — S288, itself an arabica crossed with liberica, put across Kent. A real interspecific hybrid, decades before that became fashionable.

In the cup
Sweet and rounded, moderate acidity without harshness, a clean finish. Chocolate and spice
Lineage
S288 (an arabica × liberica cross) crossed with Kent — a genuine interspecific hybrid
Grown
India — 25–30% of all Indian arabica — and Indonesia
Altitude
1,000–1,600 m
Brew it as
Filter or espresso. Superb with milk, which is not a slight

Our opinion

India is the most underrated arabica origin on earth and S795 is the reason to start there. Almost nobody outside India drinks it, largely because Indian coffee got typecast decades ago as dark, chicoried and cheap.

It is superb with milk, and we mean that as praise rather than a consolation. A great many coffees that cup beautifully black disappear entirely under dairy; this one holds its shape.

Filter or espresso, both fine. Medium roast. Do not pay a Gesha premium for anything and then tell us you have never tried an Indian coffee.

Where we’ve had it good

ARAKU, Araku Valley, Andhra Pradesh. Terroir-mapped, organic, grown by tribal farming families in the Eastern Ghats, roasted in their own café in Indiranagar. We have had the Micro Climate, the Signature, the Grand Reserve and the Festive Edit. Start with the Micro Climate — clean and sweet, and completely unlike whatever you think Indian coffee is.

We have no commercial relationship with any roaster named in The Lineup. We bought the coffee.

Sources

Out past the break

The Hybrid Set

More from The Hybrid Set